Once I got the rotten stringers and bulkheads removed and the hull surface grinded down, I was ready to install new stringers.

I made the new stringers within the same location and dimensions as the old ones. I chose to use 3/4" 14lb density sheets of Michigan Composite foam for the new stringers.

The port and starboard stringers were originally only 3/4" thick so I kept the new composite ones the same size and located them in exactly the same spot as the originals. I also decided to add a single layer of 1708 biax beforehand down the center of the hull for added strength.

The keel stringer was made up of a sandwich of two layers of 3/4" 14 lb composite with a single layer of 1708 biax between them. I laid up this stringer "sandwich" on the garage floor on top of garbage bags (for easy cleanup) and them placed weight on top to compress the two layers while curing.

After the keel stringer fully cured I began the process of installing the stringers onto the hull by using a bead of epoxy/cabosil mixed to a peanut butter consistency. I made sure to run a filet the length of each stringer to help facilitate the application of fiberglass in the next step.

Once the three stringers were epoxied into place I set out to laminate each of the stringers onto the hull one at a time. For this process I used two layers of 1708 biax. I did on stringer at a time and laid up the two layers of biax at the same time "hot".

The first layer of biax over the stringer tabbed out onto the hull surface by 6', went up and over the stringer, and then tabbed out 6" on the other side. The second layer was laid on hot in the same manner except that I allowed it to tab out onto the hull around 12".